国内必去的古镇之十五——青木川,陕西旅游攻略-利来国际官网

今天到青木川古镇,也是我喜欢的。青木川古镇位于陕西省的西南端,与甘肃、四川两省交界,是个“一脚踏三省”的地方,为秦蜀之咽喉,商贾云集的边贸重镇,也是兵家必争之地。三国时期,邓艾攻蜀率部经青木川南下;明末崇祯十年(1637年)闯王李自成义军由青木川过境入川占领青川县......
民国时期,政乱匪患,因地僻人杂,官府无力统治,乱世中,成就了当地一个不务正业、勇猛好斗的人物魏辅唐,魏辅唐弟兄三人,排行老三,因杀死当时民团团长魏正先而掌握了当地大权,建立统治长达二十余年,魏辅唐当权期间,利用地理优势,对老街进行了规划和整治,在风貌上形成了统一风格。老街沿河布局,顺应河流的自然弯曲,整体呈“s”型弧度。
近年来,因长篇小说《青木川》该表的电视连续剧《一代枭雄》的热播,让这个鲜为人知的传奇古镇成为了旅游热门景区。我们到青木川的时候仍旧在下雨,使得流经青木川的金溪河水大涨,浑浊的河水流得有些急。住下来后就迫不及待出去逛,青木川的景点,最知名的莫过于魏家宅院,08年汶川地震时遭到损坏,据说现在已经修复;辅仁中学,这个枪毙魏富堂的地方,也是由他亲手建立的一所学校;位于山腰的回龙阁,可以俯瞰整个青木川的回龙阁,因为时间比较晚,我都没去。
撑着伞走在龙延新街上,新街与老街在金溪河的两边,与河平行,青石板的街道正中间隔十多米远就有一扇门,是那种古建筑中室内门,带门框的,门上面还贴有对联或门画,就这么横在街道中间,两边都可以走人,也可以跨过门走。新街一半十字街道有一座三层楼阁,一层是拱桥式的柱子撑起的,游客可以从旁边很窄的楼梯上去俯瞰街景。街道有很多小路通向河边,顺着河边的建筑都是酒店、餐馆,还有露天的桌椅,可能因为下雨的原因,没有什么人。河边可见一些栓船的石墩子,可见这里曾经商贸也是很发达的。
飞凤桥是一座风雨桥,横跨在青木川的河流上,走过飞凤桥便是青木川古镇的中部区域,荣盛魁和烟管也就在这片区域。回龙场老街老街始建于明成化年间,于清代大规模建筑,是青木川古镇的一条主街,贯穿整个古镇东西。古街沿河布局,随河弯曲而曲,平面呈弧形,全场860余米,老街建筑保留完整,风貌依旧,有些建筑至今依然彰显着旧日的繁盛。青石街两边明清民居错落有致,窗棂、门楣、瓦当雕刻精美,风格典雅。街道随处可见的是卖核桃馍的,还有打着石锅鱼、木桶鱼招牌的餐馆。
在老街找了一家百年老店吃木桶鱼,店里只有店主夫妻俩,我们要了一条2.6斤的黔鱼(看起来像鲶鱼,尾巴分叉,好像叫叉尾鮰),在等着鱼的时候,和店主夫妇聊天,他们说因为连续的雨天,游客不多,昨天晚上因为河水上涨,怕淹水不敢睡踏实,女主人将鱼肉片成片,头尾和骨头开始熬汤,男主人在炒黑石头,他告诉我,木桶鱼中的食材全凭高温烘焙的黑石,再加之滚烫的高汤而焖熟,这样即有可以锁住食材的水分,又锁住了食材原有的香味,再加之来自高山地区、多雾的香杉树制成的木桶的芳香,木材的木香、食材的清味相互交融,使得木桶鱼独具一格的鲜美,这就是木桶鱼味道鲜美的秘密所在。等了大约半个小时,木桶鱼上桌了,果然鲜嫩,里面的黄瓜、西红柿等菜也刚刚熟,味道好极了。
吃完饭沿着老街消食,红红的灯笼在雨中有些朦胧,夜晚雨中的老街有些像迟暮的老人,寂静只听得见滴滴答答的雨声,就是老街的标语都还是“1959年国庆节”,一甲子有余了。从老街的一头走到另一头,两头都没有路灯,只有那不到800米的老街,还有些居民还活动。

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